Elektro Pedal Steel Guitar Build

[Elektro]

Major 8-string PSG Copedant:

Code: Select all

| 0 || F  | G || A | B | C || E | H  |
|---||----|---||---|---|---||---|----|
| 1 || 1# |   ||   |   |   || 7 |    |
| 5 ||    |   || 6 |   | 6 ||   | 5b |
| 3 ||    | 2 ||   | 4 |   ||   |    |
| 1 || 1# |   ||   |   | 2 || 7 |    |
| 5 ||    |   || 6 |   |   ||   | 5b |
| 3 ||    | 2 ||   | 4 |   ||   |    |
| 1 || 1# |   ||   |   | 2 || 7 |    |
| 5 ||    |   || 6 |   |   ||   |    |

Elektro:
I found this setup quite easy to play, but it has 7 pedals/levers, and 8 strings. Pick the six strings/pedals you think you want.
The copedant header letters are not chords, but pedal/lever names, where F,G,E, and H are knee levers.
If all pedals are on the floor you are going to be dancing to get combinations. A+B gives an UP-chord at root fret, while G+E gives a DOWN-chord at root fret. B+E gives DOWN-7th at root.
You may wish to swap positions with E & G. Don't omit G lever... Maybe C or H. H can be done with A+B+E shifted up seven frets.
If 1=G, progress up the major scale for the other numbers. A #10 or #11 gauge works fine for first string, G, and will pull up to A (if req'd, added onto C-pedal).
If you think you like this tuning, send me email, and I will send you a list of where to find useful chords.

I'm planning on tuning the strings to the open G chord. Then use the slide bar to different frets, to get the chord I want. I'll set the pedals, one for minor by dropping the B string 1/2 note to Bb. Another pedal will drop the highest G string 1 full note to F, for a 7th chord. I also plan on a M7 chord, so will have to decide on a separate pedal for this, or figuring a way to use the same pedal for the 7th chord, and only drop it 1/2 note to F#. That's the basics I want. Then I will add in 3 more pedals, to add in a 4th by raising a B to C, a 6th by rasing a D to E, and a 9th by raising a G to A. That's the idea I have now. But, I don't know how it will sound or work out, until I actually finish this guitar.

I understand there are other ways to do what I want to do, but to me the way I'm going to do it will make the guitar extremely easy to play, and probably almost anybody could easily learn to play it, as long as they are not tone deaf.

I have a lap guitar, and it works quite well for me to get all the major chords, so I figure with the pedal steel I can get all the other types of chords I want with the pedals, and I can play any chord I need or want to.

I've never played a steel string guitar, or even seen one in person. I don't know anyone who has one. I've only seen them in pictures.

Wayne

[Dave-M]

Elektro:

Did you notice you can play the whole major scale at root fret using pedals A,B,G, and E, on my copedant, with C as an alternate source of 2 and 6.

In other words, whole tunes can be played in triads without moving from root, except where slides are required for effect. The IIm, IIIm, and VIm, are available with I, IV, V, and V7 (4,5,7) right at root.

The (2,4,7) is available 2 frets left with F-lever.

[Elektro]

Elektro:

Did you notice you can play the whole major scale at root fret using pedals A,B,G, and E, on my copedant, with C as an alternate source of 2 and 6.

In other words, whole tunes can be played in triads without moving from root, except where slides are required for effect. The IIm, IIIm, and VIm, are available with I, IV, V, and V7 (4,5,7) right at root.

The (2,4,7) is available 2 frets left with F-lever.

That's cool. No, didn't notice that. Once I get my steel guitar together, I can experiment with your copedant, and others, as well as the open tuning I'm considering.

I did a bit more work on my guitar today, and possibly will do more. I finally caught up with my regular business work, and had a bit of energy this morning to do something. I'll add some pics here in a bit.

Elektro

[Dave-M]

Hi, Elektro:
Here's the copedant you describe, with more-or-less Nashville pedal names.

Code: Select all

| 0 || A | B | C | D  | E  | m  |
|---||---|---|---|----|----|----|
| 1 ||   |   |   | 7b | 7  |    |
| 5 || 6 |   |   |    |    |    |
| 3 ||   | 4 |   |    |    | 3b |
| 1 ||   |   | 2 |    |    |    |
| 5 || 6 |   |   |    |    |    |
| 3 ||   | 4 |   |    |    | 3b |

[Elektro]

Here are a few more photos of what I have done so far:


In the first image, it's hard to see because the image is not super clear, but, I machined the neck where the bridge is placed, so there is a ledge for the bridge to set up against. This is to insure precision alignment, and, the stress of the pressure from the string tension falls on the metal parts, not entirely on the bolts. I wanted the force to go up against the aluminum ledge, as this seems a better way to be sure the bridge has no movement.



In this second image, you can see two 1/4" bolts in the base, set into the neck. I plan to put more bolts, but am considering best placement. I think on the top, set them flush with the surface as I did underneath, and possibly use chromed bolts for a nicer finish. I plan to put two bolts in behind the 1/2" diameter steel bar, two in front, to secure the bar in place. I want no movement of the bridge or bar to ruin intonation.



That's it for now. I will need to finish securing the bridge, then might start making some fingers.

Elektro

[Elektro]

Just wanted to chime in here and say I have not given up on this project. The last year has been quite crazy for me, having had to move a few times, financial difficulties, etc etc. Anyway, I'm now in a situation I can carry on with this project, building my own Pedal Steel Guitar. Up to now it's just a kind of dream, as I have never really had my hands on a Pedal Steel, or even seen one in person, I've only seen pictures.

My idea of tuning this guitar and playing it is simple. I will tune it to a major chord, probably A major. One pedal will change the chord to minor, another will change to A 7th (G), another will possibly add a 4th, and so on and so forth. More or less like a lap top, with the ability to change to a few other chords. Then I can play a huge selection of songs, not in the typical manner the steel is played, though.

So I hope I can finish this one up this year and begin playing it

Never give up!

Wayne

[Elektro]

I have been working on my guitar lately, deciding I really would like to finish this project. I have looked at many different ways to make the changer and changer fingers. I finally decided on a simple way to do it, and to start with it is push or pull. Eventually I'll make it push/pull. I just want to get something together, see how it comes out. Here are a few pics:

















I'm hoping the set up is strong enough. The neck is a solid 3/4" thick 6061 aluminum plate, the box is oak, and held together with 1.5" wood screws. The stepped tuner is all part of the machined plate, it's all one piece. I have not bolted the neck plate to the base as of yet. More to come next week..................

Elektro

[Elektro]

Can anyone tell me what I should be looking at for springs? I have a source to buy pretty much any size or tension. I can allow for whatever length, I'm looking at about 3 1/2 as a distance to use, but at this point can basically put in whatever is needed.

I've got some of the changer fingers machined. Looking at putting in stops and such, would like to get things together and at least string it up.

I'll be using a single rod to connect to each of the changer fingers, which will be two parts fingers. They can be either push, or pull. I'm considering an interesting settup, different than anything I've seen, which will allow push/pull ability, using a single rod per finger. So, six rods in total. I am not sure of the distance needed to do so, but I'm hoping for 3 notes push or pull. I'll wait until I actually put it together, as seeing it will give an understanding, and, I might change my design a lot along the way.

I'll be putting a small bearing in the connection of rods. I like the idea of bearings at each joint, seems to me it will make it smoother, easier, and no potential for looseness to gradually develop because of wearing out of parts. It remains to be seem as to whether the bearings will bear the load of pressure. If they do not work I can replace them with a metal pin.

Up to this point I've only looked at pictures of a pedal steel guitar, I've never seen one in person.

I am hoping to get the fingers and rods finished this week, maybe be able to make some noise, but anyway, I think by month's end I might finish?

Elektro

[burt]

From looking at the photos of the two-part changer fingers, I'm struggling to see how they work.

Have you got any drawings to enlighten me ?

[Elektro]

From looking at the photos of the two-part changer fingers, I'm struggling to see how they work.

Have you got any drawings to enlighten me ?

The part of the finger leaning to the left is for pull, the other finger part is the push. The rod is connected to the pull finger, and when it is actuated (pulled), the push part of the finger, which has a spring connected to it, remains stationary. The string is connected to the fatter pull finger, and when pulled the note is raised. When the rod is pushed, the pull finger, which is locked in place to the push finger, both finger parts are pushed, to lower the note by lessoning tension on the string. Only one rod is needed, and push/pull leverage is identical. I've been looking at pictures of the complex system of rods on the underside of Pedal Steel Guitars, and at least on this PS Guitar, am trying to simplify things and reduce the number of parts and the compexity of the system. This is push pull system, with 2 piece changer fingers, one rod per changer finger. The problem is, how to use the same rods for push/pull. I came up with a solution, of which I'll post more about later, as I'd like to at least hook up one string and see it actually work. Two different pedals will be on a rocker bar, when one pedal is depressed, the string is lowered. While one pedal is lowered, the other will go up. This will seem odd, and possibly, not acceptable. I might not like it and abandon it. I think it might be cool to be able to change a note as much as 4 to 6 steps, if the lowering pedal were depressed and then gradually lifted to neutral, and smoothly continued to raise the note by pressing the raise pedal. I have no idea if this is something I'd want to do or if anyone would want to do?

I do have a sketch of my design, but it is in pencil, measurements are all skewed and not accurate. If I have time I'll draw it nicer and post it.

Elektro