Jim -- Looks to me that you've already notched the nut and bridge for the string spacing, right?
Seems to me that there is not sufficient angle from the tuners to the nut. What I'd do in this situation is use a thinker piece of wood or a wooden shim placed under the nut fixture (mimicked at the bridge as well, to ensure even string height the full length of the scale).
Just my two cents based on what I can see in your photos.
newbe
Re: newbe
I'd say whatever it takes to get good string tension at the bridge and nut, bearing in mind string height relative to the pickup. Since the strings don't need to touch the fingerboard you can, within reason, make it as high as you want.
Re: newbe
Hi Jim,
A couple of points for you. Bill's suggestion as regards raising the support points is good, probably the best way to do the job. What you need to be aware of is this:
To gain a useful change in string angle you need to make quite a bit of change in the height. (I just guessed at sizes there for illustration) It is, somehow, nice to have strings parallel with the fret board so I would make the bridge and the nut the same height. I don't know of a good technical reason for that so don't worry if you want them different.
Your question regarding antler - I don't know what that is like to use, never tried it. However, somewhere, you need to have the strings grounded. This is most often done at the bridge. If you use something non-conductive could you use the string retainer for this? It could be complex if you are using individual ferrules though.
This is just an observation since you have said that you are going to strip it all down for the rest of the build. Coupling the string bearer to the rest of the bridge is critical for sustain and I can see that the fit is not perfect just yet. I am sure you are aware of that point but the reason I mention it is this. I have struggled to get the very best fit at this point in the past. I have come up with two answers. One is to route a 'V' in the wooden part and allow the metal to contact at two points along its full length. The other method uses a very thin sanding sheet that I found in a model shop. It is very fine and is backed with a thin plastic rather than paper. Wrap it around the metal part and work along the cut in the wood until everything fits as it should. Test it frequently for fit as you go. Just some ideas there and you may well have thought of a better way to do it.
Regards, Allan.....
A couple of points for you. Bill's suggestion as regards raising the support points is good, probably the best way to do the job. What you need to be aware of is this:
- head angle.jpg (26.54 KiB) Viewed 2516 times
Your question regarding antler - I don't know what that is like to use, never tried it. However, somewhere, you need to have the strings grounded. This is most often done at the bridge. If you use something non-conductive could you use the string retainer for this? It could be complex if you are using individual ferrules though.
This is just an observation since you have said that you are going to strip it all down for the rest of the build. Coupling the string bearer to the rest of the bridge is critical for sustain and I can see that the fit is not perfect just yet. I am sure you are aware of that point but the reason I mention it is this. I have struggled to get the very best fit at this point in the past. I have come up with two answers. One is to route a 'V' in the wooden part and allow the metal to contact at two points along its full length. The other method uses a very thin sanding sheet that I found in a model shop. It is very fine and is backed with a thin plastic rather than paper. Wrap it around the metal part and work along the cut in the wood until everything fits as it should. Test it frequently for fit as you go. Just some ideas there and you may well have thought of a better way to do it.
Regards, Allan.....
Only nuts eat squirrels.
Keep yer tools sharp! That way you can use more of your strength guiding them AWAY from your body rather than forcing the cut!!!
Keep yer tools sharp! That way you can use more of your strength guiding them AWAY from your body rather than forcing the cut!!!
Re: newbe
Here's a pic I stole from Georgeboards (Hope it's ok George, if not I'll take it down). I measured my Fender Pro Dual Eight and it's about 10mm, but the tuning head is routed into the body, providing a larger angle from the nut to tuners. George's guitar here shows the same:
Re: newbe
Allan and I posted at the same time, but you see what we're on about. Most six-strings (edit: Spanish, not steel) I've ever laid my hands on have a headstock angled back, away from the fingerboard surface, providing the same effect.
Since you've already built your body, I think raising your strings is a good option, although probably not the only one. As I was perusing the GeorgeBoards site, I saw a number of his horns with string hold-downs such as those found on Fender guitars.
Since you've already built your body, I think raising your strings is a good option, although probably not the only one. As I was perusing the GeorgeBoards site, I saw a number of his horns with string hold-downs such as those found on Fender guitars.
Re: newbe
thanks guys
Iam going to take her apart and try to correct everthing. I will get the strings level and make a new piece of brass for the bridge that does not fit right. I routed the wood out and turned the brass down from a piece of 1/2 stock and did not get them the same as you can see. I have a piece of 3/8 brass somewhere but can not put my hands on it. I have a set of mics and will get them the same. After I made them and cut them to size I could not put it back in lathe and correct it. To excited to get it together and try it. You guys know what that is about. Got the pickup today. Will keep you guys posted and thanks for the help.
JIM
Iam going to take her apart and try to correct everthing. I will get the strings level and make a new piece of brass for the bridge that does not fit right. I routed the wood out and turned the brass down from a piece of 1/2 stock and did not get them the same as you can see. I have a piece of 3/8 brass somewhere but can not put my hands on it. I have a set of mics and will get them the same. After I made them and cut them to size I could not put it back in lathe and correct it. To excited to get it together and try it. You guys know what that is about. Got the pickup today. Will keep you guys posted and thanks for the help.
JIM
Re: newbe
Do you mean for the wiring between the components, the pots and things on the control plate? It's not very important Jim. Just don't use anything too thick and be sure it is flexible. I find it easier that way. Single strand will work but it is not so easy to work with. Multi-strand is more flexible than solid core but if you are going to somewhere like Radio Shack you will be very lucky if you find good stuff. Be sure to use screened cable out to the jack socket. Look around the net, use Google, find some pics of control plate wiring and you will learn all you need to know.
Allan.....
Allan.....
Only nuts eat squirrels.
Keep yer tools sharp! That way you can use more of your strength guiding them AWAY from your body rather than forcing the cut!!!
Keep yer tools sharp! That way you can use more of your strength guiding them AWAY from your body rather than forcing the cut!!!