Search found 1299 matches
- Sun Nov 11, 2012 10:56 am
- Forum: Pedal Steel
- Topic: Wood body thickness?
- Replies: 9
- Views: 4206
Re: Wood body thickness?
It is largely a matter of what suits our ears, what suits our concept of sound and vibration transfers. When the end result is good to our ears and the ears of highly experienced musicians then we will tend to adhere to the building concepts that made our product sound good. This is not to say that ...
- Thu Nov 01, 2012 11:22 am
- Forum: Pedal Steel
- Topic: My first pedal steel attempt
- Replies: 45
- Views: 11327
Re: My first pedal steel attempt
Ron, I love this a lot! Look at the pillow blocks, the way you have them made and installed. It oozes of strength and good looks at the same time. I might do some copying here. Nice to observe that you made brass fingers with string-thru-finger mounting. I have found this combination to work very we...
- Thu Oct 18, 2012 8:46 pm
- Forum: Pedal Steel
- Topic: Different kind of finger for different strings - sound?
- Replies: 22
- Views: 5917
Re: Different kind of finger for different strings - sound?
Will, thanks for bringing up my brass fingers. Mike thanks for the endorsement that I am maybe doing something right. You were right, Mike. The brass has been received well.Apart from being much heavier than aluminum, brass fingers have at least one thing that might be better. It is much harder to w...
- Tue Oct 09, 2012 5:56 pm
- Forum: Lap Steel
- Topic: The second one, Oahu-style: finished
- Replies: 63
- Views: 15619
Re: The second one on the way!
Xavier, There is no doubt in my mind: You are an artist in the truest sense of the word. Everything - right from picking out the nicest wood to the final sanding and finish, your creations speak of high quality and beauty.
- Sun Oct 07, 2012 9:49 am
- Forum: Pedal Steel
- Topic: Different kind of finger for different strings - sound?
- Replies: 22
- Views: 5917
Re: Different kind of finger for different strings - sound?
Mikko, this is an interesting concept. I haven't studied it enough to even make a half decent comment but at first glance it sure makes me want to follow your ideas and study your pics. It is obvious to me that this is a take-off on the classic pull/release changer. Couple of questions: the lever co...
- Thu Oct 04, 2012 11:41 am
- Forum: Finishing Techniques
- Topic: finishing Formika
- Replies: 6
- Views: 10124
Re: finishing Formika
When I wrote what I did, I had only "clear coat" meaning lacquer in mind. I will go along with you Richard in saying that some kind of polish might work, but I can't agree with "fine grit" polish. Even the finest grit will leave swirl marks on mica I'm afraid. Maybe Maguiars Swirl remover will do th...
- Thu Oct 04, 2012 7:56 am
- Forum: Finishing Techniques
- Topic: finishing Formika
- Replies: 6
- Views: 10124
Re: finishing Formika
No. It would peel off in no time. Formica is supposed to have a nice clear finish without any help. If it does not, the remedy is to put on new formica.
- Tue Oct 02, 2012 8:12 pm
- Forum: Pedal Steel
- Topic: How do you cut a notch in the end of bar stock?
- Replies: 3
- Views: 1920
Re: How do you cut a notch in the end of bar stock?
Mike if you are handy with a band saw and flat file, use that. NOT recommended! I have never been able to file a flat surface. What I used for my first couple of steels was my table saw. The big secret here is to get the workpiece fastened securely enough so you are sure it stays put. and then take ...
- Mon Oct 01, 2012 8:15 pm
- Forum: Pedal Steel
- Topic: Changer design
- Replies: 8
- Views: 3072
Re: Changer design
Will what I meant with o/c pivot points was the "on center" of the screws you have for the finger and the lower bar - the distance between the two appeared to be too close. And then yo also have the distance from the lower-bar screw to where the lower bar touches the finger. The closer they are, the...
- Sat Sep 29, 2012 7:51 pm
- Forum: Beginner's Corner
- Topic: set screws and flats on shafts
- Replies: 2
- Views: 8350
Re: set screws and flats on shafts
Opinion: The setscrew is weak in that it holds on to a very small area of the cross shaft. It invites loosening and dead play after a few hours operation. The best of this evil would be a cup set screw (larger holding surface than a point). Use stainless steel ones you can reef them tighter than bla...