Steel Guitar Builder

OK, here is the single rod version. I am not sure where I would put the tuner for the 'raise' but that is not a biggie...

I have a few thoughts on how to make this work better but it doesn't make a difference to the basic principle...

Comments?????

Allen , thats pretty nifty , i like the simplicity of it. Russ

The tuner for the raise would be the regular keyhead tuner.

Like I said earlier - DUH me! Thanks Burt.

Is there any way to get a raise and two lowers on the same rod?
I can see how to pull the greater-lower bellcrank with the lesser-lower bellcrank, but not if a raise is included, since the lowering return stops would interfere with the raise.

Dave,
on that design...you can't raise or lower the same string at the same time and that's why i'm not a big fan of pull release changer,you can't have split tuning and i wouldn't wan't to miss my vertical lever that lowers the 5th and 10th i think in my opinion those changers designs are out of date for todays music, when i hear others say...nice it's a simple changer ect..., the changer might be simple to build but the rest of the undercarriage is alot more complicated than a all pull system, you have a bunch of springs to attach here and there and also a bunch collars ect... ,
in my honest opinion it is easyer to build a all pull guitar once you've done it a couple of time .

Pat C

This discussion has been so very useful to me in modifying my old permanent. Thank you very much.

I'm going to do the two rod setup as is shown in Allan's first animation, E to Eb and E to F# (and to F on a knee lever). Is there any reason the lowers couldn't go to the bottom hole of the finger, as long as the mechanical advantage is compensated for at the knee lever bell crank?

I can see only one reason that the lowering rod should be nearest to the body, and that is so that the bellcrank half-tone tuner (for the knee lever raising the string a half tone) is easily accessible.

If the lowering rod is furthest from the body, it might get a bit fiddly trying to tune the raise, but it's not a big issue.

Ah, sorry it took so long. Yes, after futzing with it last night I definitely see your point. However it might have to be that way for perm geometry reasons. I'll have to make some kind of fussy lever with a hole in it for the other rod. Thanks.

My more immediate task is to get nylon adjusting nuts for the rod ends. Ayyy, trying to adjust this with its super-glued nuts is aggravating. No space.