Ah! Thanks Georg, I think I was imagining larger mirrors than you are meaning. I understand what you are saying now.
Regards, Allan.....
Simple method for locating body-drop by sight
Re: Simple method for locating body-drop by sight
Only nuts eat squirrels.
Keep yer tools sharp! That way you can use more of your strength guiding them AWAY from your body rather than forcing the cut!!!
Keep yer tools sharp! That way you can use more of your strength guiding them AWAY from your body rather than forcing the cut!!!
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Georg
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Re: Simple method for locating body-drop by sight
Yeah, I should probably have "sized down" the details from the start, and kept it simple. Have used the method for too many decades, and got caught up in the "everything is simple once you know how" circles, me thinks.
These days I don't bother with complex set-ups when I want to see minute amounts of flexing/displacement on anything. I just attach the smallest mirrors I have at hand to whatever "body" I want to check, and control the light-conditions so I can see those moving reflections clearly enough to interpret them.
Only when I need very, very, precise measurements do I bother with more elaborate set-ups, and for PSGs it's really a matter of finding, and thereafter stabilizing, the weak spots to such a degree that body-drop detuning can neither be heard nor seen anymore.
The stabilization process itself usually involves more complex thinking, combined with a fair amount of trial and error, to get right. PSG constructions differ enough to make "one size fits all" solutions useless, and most PSG builders/owners are too afraid they'll "lose the tone" to try radical enough solutions.
A well-stabilized PSG with no audible body-drop usually gains on "tone" compared to a non-stabilized one, but in this thread I'm focusing on how to find the problems since solving them will otherwise be pure guesswork.
These days I don't bother with complex set-ups when I want to see minute amounts of flexing/displacement on anything. I just attach the smallest mirrors I have at hand to whatever "body" I want to check, and control the light-conditions so I can see those moving reflections clearly enough to interpret them.
Only when I need very, very, precise measurements do I bother with more elaborate set-ups, and for PSGs it's really a matter of finding, and thereafter stabilizing, the weak spots to such a degree that body-drop detuning can neither be heard nor seen anymore.
The stabilization process itself usually involves more complex thinking, combined with a fair amount of trial and error, to get right. PSG constructions differ enough to make "one size fits all" solutions useless, and most PSG builders/owners are too afraid they'll "lose the tone" to try radical enough solutions.
A well-stabilized PSG with no audible body-drop usually gains on "tone" compared to a non-stabilized one, but in this thread I'm focusing on how to find the problems since solving them will otherwise be pure guesswork.