Inlays
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Ross Shafer
- Posts: 189
- Joined: Tue Nov 24, 2009 11:52 am
Re: Inlays
I posted a Solidworks model of this long ago and finally got around to making a few....works perfectly. It just for timing. Tuning is still done at the end plates. The mondo c-clip is all I had around, I have a couple of different solutions that are a bit more svelte. Stack 'em and pack 'em!
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- adj bell crank.JPG (59.22 KiB) Viewed 2144 times
Re: Inlays
Ross, sweet!
Could we expand on that one and say... Machine a slot in front the length of the crank, then have the rod come thru the slot and into the brass bushing that would go thru the square piece. That way the rod would be centered on the crank instead of on one side. This might enable more straight rod runs...?
BTW - how thick is your bellcrank?
Could we expand on that one and say... Machine a slot in front the length of the crank, then have the rod come thru the slot and into the brass bushing that would go thru the square piece. That way the rod would be centered on the crank instead of on one side. This might enable more straight rod runs...?
BTW - how thick is your bellcrank?
http://benrom.com/
21 BenRom pedal steel guitars, a Nash 112 and a 1967 TOS Milling machine with many cutters making one hell of a mess on the floor.
21 BenRom pedal steel guitars, a Nash 112 and a 1967 TOS Milling machine with many cutters making one hell of a mess on the floor.
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Ross Shafer
- Posts: 189
- Joined: Tue Nov 24, 2009 11:52 am
Re: Inlays
Thanks Bent...no where near so sweet as that blue dream you just finished!
I think what you're suggesting can be done, but I don't think it has anything to do with how straight a pull rod run is. without digging further into your idea, I can't be absolutely sure, but I'm pretty sure it would also add manufacturing steps (cutting the slot if nothing else). Show Pro, GFI, Fessenden, Emmons, Rittenberry, Lamar, Mullins, Williams, etc. all use bell cranks that do not support the rod from both sides with little of no ill effect.
In a perfect world, I too would prefer to pull the rod symmetrically....But in the real world, using normal pull rod materials and diameters, the string pulling forces we're talking about on the vast bulk of the steel guitars don't really require the extra support.
The full assembly width of the crank you see is .375", the main body is .220", but the next round will probably be a bit thinner. My goal is a .340-.355" total width...essentially in the same range of string spacing norms.
Hopefully that's all clear...and that I understood your question to begin with.
bestest,
Ross
I think what you're suggesting can be done, but I don't think it has anything to do with how straight a pull rod run is. without digging further into your idea, I can't be absolutely sure, but I'm pretty sure it would also add manufacturing steps (cutting the slot if nothing else). Show Pro, GFI, Fessenden, Emmons, Rittenberry, Lamar, Mullins, Williams, etc. all use bell cranks that do not support the rod from both sides with little of no ill effect.
In a perfect world, I too would prefer to pull the rod symmetrically....But in the real world, using normal pull rod materials and diameters, the string pulling forces we're talking about on the vast bulk of the steel guitars don't really require the extra support.
The full assembly width of the crank you see is .375", the main body is .220", but the next round will probably be a bit thinner. My goal is a .340-.355" total width...essentially in the same range of string spacing norms.
Hopefully that's all clear...and that I understood your question to begin with.
bestest,
Ross
Re: Inlays
Dave, Please excuse us for hijacking your thread. I will start a new one entitled Bellcranks
http://benrom.com/
21 BenRom pedal steel guitars, a Nash 112 and a 1967 TOS Milling machine with many cutters making one hell of a mess on the floor.
21 BenRom pedal steel guitars, a Nash 112 and a 1967 TOS Milling machine with many cutters making one hell of a mess on the floor.
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sheffield steel
- Posts: 188
- Joined: Mon May 10, 2010 9:24 am
- Location: Southampton, UK
Re: Inlays
No problem Bent my friend, this is ALL good stuff! I've got my thinking cap on too!
Dave.
Dave.
Sheffield D10 9+8, Bradshaw WEBB 614-E, Sheffield stainless steel tone bars, Hilton electronic volume pedal, Pro-Fex 2, BOSS DD3
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sheffield steel
- Posts: 188
- Joined: Mon May 10, 2010 9:24 am
- Location: Southampton, UK
Re: Inlays
DONE! Phew!
Dave.
Dave.
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- Mike's D10 Finished 002 - Copy (640x544).jpg (257.35 KiB) Viewed 1955 times
Sheffield D10 9+8, Bradshaw WEBB 614-E, Sheffield stainless steel tone bars, Hilton electronic volume pedal, Pro-Fex 2, BOSS DD3
Re: Inlays
Hi everyone, I decided that I'm going to use a plain strip of aluminum, and then add Gold Leaf like shown in this photo. The lap steels will be painted solid red on the body with a white neck. The Pedal Steels will have a transparent red over Tiger Maple, with transparent white over a Tiger Maple neck. Both with Gold Leaf in place of wood inlay bands. This way I'm combining my love of all things Steel Guitar, and my nearly 50 years volunteering in the Fire/Rescue and Emergency Medical Services.
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sheffield steel
- Posts: 188
- Joined: Mon May 10, 2010 9:24 am
- Location: Southampton, UK
Re: Inlays
Should look really sweet! Photos please when you've finished her. Dave.
Sheffield D10 9+8, Bradshaw WEBB 614-E, Sheffield stainless steel tone bars, Hilton electronic volume pedal, Pro-Fex 2, BOSS DD3
Re: Inlays
Wow Dave nice work on your Sheffield, when do you put the inlay in? before finish goes on or after? Steve B.
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Storm Rosson
- Posts: 191
- Joined: Sat Jul 10, 2010 8:55 am
- Location: Silver City, NM
Re: Inlays
I'll take the liberty to answer this for Dave ,as the answer is obvious and unilaterally the same...before...everything like stain/dye only finish product at this point is usually grain sealer applied to the inlay not the guitar. 