I want to add 2 knee levers to an Emmons GS10 student model. Questions:
1. Do I need special knee levers, or will any kind be OK?
2. What parts do I need to do the job? I have nothing yet.
3. Where do I properly place the levers? (diagram needed)
4. Any Suggestions and offers appreciated.
5. Have I forgotten anything??
Thanks, Fred
Knee Levers
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Paul Lafountaine
- Posts: 332
- Joined: Sun Jan 23, 2011 5:06 am
- Location: Northern Ontario
Re: Knee Levers
Hi Fred.
Post pictures of the undercarriage so people can see and make suggestions. Just a thought. Good luck buddy!
Paul
Post pictures of the undercarriage so people can see and make suggestions. Just a thought. Good luck buddy!
Paul
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Fred Wright
- Posts: 49
- Joined: Tue Apr 27, 2010 2:21 pm
- Location: Georgetown, KY
Re: Knee Levers
Paul,
Sorry, but I don't have a way to do that. Fred
Sorry, but I don't have a way to do that. Fred
Re: Knee Levers
The actual knee levers don't have to be Emmons, but the bits that are connected to the changer, which is a push pull, need to be of similar dimensions to what's already on there, as some rods pass through more than one bellcrank.
Depending on what raises/lowers you're going to put on there, you're going to need bellcranks, half-tone tuners, pull/push rods, maybe some little wire hooks that connect the pull rods to the changer fingers (if you're raising), shock springs, collars, 2 cross-shafts, and maybe some spacers that go on the push rods, between the finger and the collar (if you're lowering).
Knee lever positioning depends on your preference, I always try to put an aluminium plate (about 1/4" thick) in the approximate mounting area (using any existing screw holes that might already be in the body) and mount the knee levers to that plate.
If I get the positioning wrong, I'll move the knee lever until I'm happy with the position.
If the aluminium plate looks like a piece of cheese, with tapped holes all over it (from unsuccessful trial-and-error knee lever positioning), I'll just throw the plate away and start again, with no damage done to the PSG.
Depending on what raises/lowers you're going to put on there, you're going to need bellcranks, half-tone tuners, pull/push rods, maybe some little wire hooks that connect the pull rods to the changer fingers (if you're raising), shock springs, collars, 2 cross-shafts, and maybe some spacers that go on the push rods, between the finger and the collar (if you're lowering).
Knee lever positioning depends on your preference, I always try to put an aluminium plate (about 1/4" thick) in the approximate mounting area (using any existing screw holes that might already be in the body) and mount the knee levers to that plate.
If I get the positioning wrong, I'll move the knee lever until I'm happy with the position.
If the aluminium plate looks like a piece of cheese, with tapped holes all over it (from unsuccessful trial-and-error knee lever positioning), I'll just throw the plate away and start again, with no damage done to the PSG.
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Fred Wright
- Posts: 49
- Joined: Tue Apr 27, 2010 2:21 pm
- Location: Georgetown, KY
Re: Knee Levers
Thanks Burt I really appreciate the advice. Fred
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richard37066
- Posts: 517
- Joined: Sat Dec 11, 2010 11:44 am
- Location: Gallatin, Tennessee, USA
Re: Knee Levers
Fred -
Read and heed Burt's last two paragraphs! The location of the levers need to be in a position where YOU ARE COMFORTABLE! There's no sense in undergoing surgery to add another joint to your leg just to activate a pedal and lever simultaneously. Try sitting at the instrument and note where your leg passes under the rear apron. Project that position into the instrument in order to get a ball-park location.
Then read Burt's last two paragraphs again!
A word to the wise should be sufficient.
Richard
Read and heed Burt's last two paragraphs! The location of the levers need to be in a position where YOU ARE COMFORTABLE! There's no sense in undergoing surgery to add another joint to your leg just to activate a pedal and lever simultaneously. Try sitting at the instrument and note where your leg passes under the rear apron. Project that position into the instrument in order to get a ball-park location.
Then read Burt's last two paragraphs again!
A word to the wise should be sufficient.
Richard