Steel Guitar Builder

I never paid much attenion to the different methods of making stops until now . I have mostly had the screw type like MSA and Dekley . Upon gathering info for my lever lock I was given the Sierra cam type lever lock picture out of the manual . I looked and didn't see the obvious because I was not seeing the forrest for the trees. Then I remembered having a Cougar for a few months and it used this type of stop on the pedals. Round disc drilled offcenter and it seemed to work well. It took some digging as I have saved tons of pictures of Under The Hood shots , but I found it .

I am going to do some study but I am thinking of making a new rear panel and incorperating the stops like the Sierra for my knee levers. I really need to make a new back panel anyway and I could relocate the jack to the other end and get rid of some unneeded holes.

Any other methods of stops out there ? Any good or bad stories about these ?

The only thing I can see against those cams Scott, is that you would need to have access in the horizontal mode with your screwdriver and there could be stuff, like rods, bellcranks, in the way. With the screw type you would get to them vertically and need less room to do so.
I am saying that based on your pics only though. I have never seen them for real.

Regards, Allan.....

Allan

Mailed the pickup this morning .

Here is a picture and not exactly how I plan on doing it but it gives you a idea of how they do it.

I am thinking of notching the inner rear rail and mounting the lever mount to the inside of it as normal . Having the to the outside of the actual lever mount and working in the rail . This would be covered by the standard rear cover plate. I will put it on paper later today and get it posted.

Thanks for the news on the pickup Scott.
I will wait for your later post before I say any more on the cam idea because, as I say, I have never actually seen one and I am likely talking from where I should be sitting!

Allan.....

Scott -- I'm currently playing a Sierra S-10 with those style stops. I personally hate 'em. Quite fiddly to get the allen wrench up in there and get things set where I want them. I find it much easier with the old setscrew/locknut configuration.

Bill
I will keep that in mind. That is what I need , input from users. I didn't change anything on the Cougar that I had so I can't say if I would like it or not. I can see how the lever lock cam system would work pretty good after getting it set . I guess I will make at least one and give it a try . I also plan on doing it a little different than they did so it might be a little better.

I normally try and set the stop before I ever flip the guitar over . I am close most of the time and finish it out with the tuning nut .

With the main one I need it on , I shouldn't have to set it but one time .

Yes, once it's set, you're golden.

From a fabricator's perspective, it certainly seems a lot easier -- cut some round stock; drill a hole offset; bolt it to whatever you're holding your cross shaft to your body with; Viola, you got yourself a stop adjuster!

What the hell, I might use it on mine!

Here's the way mine is done. 3"X3" X1/4" angle aluminum with the inside radius machined to a square surface, the one side milled so that there is a 3/8" inside lip for a positive stop for the pedal pull bracket. Bushings for the front end of the cross shafts were fitted, also the edge that contacts the top plate of the guitar was milled flat for better contact, hopefully helping with cabinet flex/drop.

I just reread the post...wouldn't it be better if all the pedals were level at the bottom of the travel, or am I missing something??? I'm a little slow today.
Bill

On the one I posted the picture of they were level when fully pressed . That was set by the rod length to the pedal .