New project for a beginner

Just getting started and have a lot of questions? Here's the spot...
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trikrider
Posts: 5
Joined: Sat Apr 03, 2010 10:18 am
Location: Wasilla, Alaska

New project for a beginner

Post by trikrider »

Hi there! Joined a little over a year ago and have a project I am now just getting around to. I purchased an old Mullen that I think is from the late 60's or 70's. Contacted Mullen about it but they couldn't tell me anything. Has a Mullen name and s/n plate on it. I posted some pics of it on one of my few posts last year. I've now got the body stripped and ready to begin the refinishing process so I have some questions I hope some of you guys can answer for me.

I am replacing the old R&B hardware and there are a large number of screw holes that I assume won't necessarily line up with the new hardware. Should I fill these with maple dowl or wood filler? I'm kind of leaning toward uniform drilling and filling with glue and dowl. Will a bunch of empty screw holes affect the tone?

I've been reading a bunch of the posts on dyes/stains. It seems most agree on the alcohol based leather dye? Powder or premixed? How much does it take to dye a steel body?

I need to remove the old inlay. What would be the best method for this? Table saw or router jig?

I'm just getting started and I'm grateful for any input you guys can lend. I'm sure I'll have many more questions as I move along with this project. Thanks for any advive!

Trik
richard37066
Posts: 517
Joined: Sat Dec 11, 2010 11:44 am
Location: Gallatin, Tennessee, USA

Re: New project for a beginner

Post by richard37066 »

Trik -

Were it me, I'd drill out all of those holes - oversize - and fill them with good old Maple dowels and anaphalactic resin glue. That stuff sticks better than death, itself. The benefit is that you'd not have to worry about where to drill the new holes especially if you used a Forstner bit and made the dowel/hole a light press fit.

If you "Google" things like "Mother-of-pearl inlay" you'll find a wealth of videos where many folks use a Dreml-like tool for cutting out the inlay channels. One can easily fit the tool with an adjustable fence for straight-line cutting. You've no doubt seen Dave's inlay work on his instrument. Should you decide that you'd like to use that technique on your own builds in the future then you will have the tool at hand.

If I dared to give you any other advice it would simply be: - TAKE YOUR TIME! The fine instruments as made by our members were not just thrown together in an afternoon. They've all brought fine craftsmanship to play. Patience is a large part of fine craftsmanship.

Say "Hey" to Sarah for us!

Richard
Bent
Posts: 1397
Joined: Mon Nov 02, 2009 3:10 pm
Location: Ontario Canada
Contact:

Re: New project for a beginner

Post by Bent »

Trik, there is not much I can add to Richard's post. Just a couple of things...I agree with oversize holes, say 3/8" Then you get yourself a plug cutter, the one with 4-prong cutters. They cut a slightly tapered plug. That way, by orienting the widest end up, you get the tightest fit possible. You can also do a bit of grain orientation so that the plug is even less visible on the finished project. Cut the plug too long so that it sticks up and you orient the grain the same direction as the woodwork. Trim it with a sharp chisel.

Old Mullen eh? wow..That's exciting!
http://benrom.com/
21 BenRom pedal steel guitars, a Nash 112 and a 1967 TOS Milling machine with many cutters making one hell of a mess on the floor.
trikrider
Posts: 5
Joined: Sat Apr 03, 2010 10:18 am
Location: Wasilla, Alaska

Re: New project for a beginner

Post by trikrider »

Hi Richard and Bent! Thanks much for the constructive input. I have drilled out several of the larger holes to 3/8" and filled them with maple plugs I cut from the old neck. It had been crudely routed out to accommdate a switch and wiring at some point so it proved to be a good plug donor. I tried the Forstner bits I had at hand on a piece of scrap, but found the 3/8" hole was too large for a snug fit for the plugs. I went through 3 regular drill bits before I found one that drilled a hole that was snug. I now need to deal with the holes on the front apron that held the mounting brackets for the pedal rod levers. I thought about using a right angle drill but think it would be too unsteady by hand. I'll explore an attachment or something that will keep it square with the work - there must be something out there for that.

I sanded the body down to 600 grit and then had second thoughts as the wood started to appear "shiney" so I backed off to 420 and then dyed it. I used Transtint aniline green mixed with 50/50 denatured alcohol and lacquer thinner. This seemed to work well and penetrated the wood to the deep green I was after. It took several applications that I stretched over 2 days.

The stripping chemical must have penetrated under the inlay as I found that if I gently pryed it up from the ends with a narrow chisel it came up rather easily. I was pleasantly surprised by this. I still needed to hog out the inlay channels a little to accommodate the new slightly thicker, wider inlay. I used a table saw for this and it worked ok - I didn't muff the channels!

Next I'm going to tackle all these small holes everywhere. I'll let you know what I did and how it went.

I appreciate the insight and suggestions very much. I'll attach some pics as I get beyond these first prep stages.

Trik
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