1. stew-mac sells router bits with multi roller guides for various depths that are for edge bindings that follow the contours. You may be able to make one of those work.
2. A precision tool makers shop can make any router bit and they also have numerous rollers of various diameters. A determined person can ave an exact combination created in the under 100 dollars range.
3. Steel necks are fairly soft radius and a Jig with a rabbit bit can also be created , some what like a Sacrificial Fence - to go on any small router table. The jig would be round - say - plywood circle cut with a large 3-4" diameter hole saw . Then you hollow out an area on the inside with a forstner bit near enough to the out side edge to allow the cutter to go through the out side edge.
Then you can bore the cutter edge out of the side , adjust the depth of cut by clamping the jig (guide) down and slide your work along the jig.
George, your continued encouragement down the ornate path is bound to affect me sooner or later. And, yes, this neck design especially is much influenced by early console steels such as Sho-Bud, as well as your own gorgeous, more recent instruments.
I am tempted to put some sort of inlay on the sides of the necks, because the fish scales so strikingly beautiful on the tops don't show when you look at the board edge ways. I really do appreciate your input, and I am not taking it lightly.
Scott, Bent, and George, these tips answer several questions that were forming in my mind. I need to add a couple more bits to my router bit collection.
As for legs, I still can't quite picture it. I have done some wood turning, still have own a lathe, and even once made some cabriole legs for a miniature table. Still, every time I try to picture turned wooden legs for this steel, all I can I see are those cheap, hardware store, screw-on, 1950's tapered legs. Also, though I much prefer sitting down to play, there are times when do I extend the legs on my National. I would just about have to make two sets of legs for this baby, and then I wood worry about weight with tall wooden legs.
I could see adding a decorative skirt like the pedal plank on a pedal steel. A clip-on decorative plank at the bottom of the chrome legs would echo the upper design, along with whatever inlay was used. This could look really classy, and I think the chrome would then pretty much disappear into the background.
I intend to attach the necks with countersunk screws all the way from the bottom side of the body at first, at least for a dry fit to see how everything works. If I am satisfied with the completed instrument's level of sustain, this may be my final method of attachment. If not, I will have to rout access to the electronics another way, and glue them down. At any rate, even after it's built and playable, I would still be able to remove the necks and perform decorative inlay work on them. None of this is set in stone as of yet.
Also, I have more of this 1-3/4" x 17" to 22" African Mahogany, enough to build 5 more similar steels if I ever get that far. So, whether this one gets all dressed up like it's in a wooden Nudie suit, or not, there's always the next one.
This is my first build, so I'm still feeling my way.
As I don't get to work on this every weekend, just getting to toss some ideas around with you guys is very encouraging. Thank you.
And Scott, if that is your first, I want to see your second. That's some beautiful work.
For right now, I am hoping to get to work a bit this weekend at least shaping brass nuts.
Thanks, Guys,
Don
Scott,
Thank you for the links.
I'm studying the router set.
How wide a swath does that bit cut?
I understand routing for installing bindings n the edge of a guitar body, but, say I want to inlay a 1/2" strip of veneer in the edge of a 1-1/2" board 1/2" from the top.
If the board has straight sides, I could run it across a router table, but, if there are curves, it seems a long shank bit with a 1/2" cutting edge would be the thing to use.
Do you have different sized bits for different widths of veneer strips, or do you make more than one pass, adjusting your depth to get the rout width right? Is there a bit for 1/4", 3/8", etc.?
BTW, I am fascinated with your keyless conversions. I wonder if anyone is making keyless tuners for 8 or 10 strings with 3/8" string spacing for lap and console steels? The MSA keyheads like the set I got form you work great for non pedal, though, to get a straight string pull with 3/8" string spacing at that end, I have to slightly adjust the angle I mount the keyheads at in relationship to the center line. Or ignore it. It's just a little esthetically unpleasing to see the keyhead stairsteps off square to the body, but when I get to that point, I'm going to have to make the decision between form and function.
It's true that a straight pull is usually not much of an issue on a non pedal, and neither are rollers normally very useful. However, I do pull strings behind the bar, and a straight pull helps the released strings return to pitch. I think rollers would help, too, even though the strings would be pulled sideways instead of stretched, but having custom roller nuts made with 3/8" spacing would be pretty expensive.
One of my pet peeves about the placement of standard tuners is when the two nearest the nut are near enough to it that they hamper bar slants involving the first fret. I like'em back just a bit. However, by moving them back, I have added even more unnecessary string to have to pull. It seems I can't win.
Looks like keyless would be the way to go.
Thanks your help, Scott.
And keep posting pictures of your work.
I only bought the 1 bit in the set and I had emailed back and forth with them on the size of cut. I did order 2 bearings because if I needed the other one shipping would eat up what it would have cost to just order it at the same time. The one I bought cuts a perfect 3/8" groove about the pefect depth. The bearing ot top sets the depth. I had never used a router until I cut the neck. The bearing follows the curve of the neck and I couldn't have asked for anything to have worked better. Of course to do a 1/2" you would cut the bottom pass and then adjust it up and make a second pass. I made a cut on a piece of scrap before cutting the neck . Of course this cut was made just like the router was a guitar and the neck was flat against the table running down the side.
As for keyless on a non 10 or 12 string. It is hard enough to get anyone to do the 10 and 12 string ones. By this I mean factory guitar makers. I don't know if it is they are too busy or just don't want to fool with it. I have managed to buy 3 from Williams but he has changed his design and just said they would be a lot higher now. I am having one built now and will let you know how that comes out.
Paul Redmond is a excelent source as he is a true machinest and has done several conversions as well as his own guitars. He is a member here as well as the other forum and just converted a Zum. The thread is Z chop job. I had checked with him and he was right in line on what I had been paying for the others. Only his would have actually been made for the guitar and not adapted as I have had to do. I have to make a plate to get them to the correct height. It works out nice .
Scott,
I just sent off an email to Paul Redmond, asking about the feasibility of making keyless tuners with 3/8" string spacing. Who knows? Maybe one day I will wind up putting all these recycled MSA keyheads back on the market.
Thanks again.
