23" scale model fretboard for lapsteel

[harry sibum]

... and one more pic.

[burt]

The best way to mark out a fretboard is to know the formula, then you can do it for any scale length that you like.

The first fret position (measured from the bridge, not the nut) will be the scale length divided by this magic number (the 12th root of 2):

1.05946309435929

eg. if you have a 24" scale, the first fret will be 24 divided by 1.05946309435929 which equals 22.652 ".

To get the next fret, divide 22.652 by the magic number 1.05946309435929 = 21.381" and so on

[harry sibum]

Thanks Burt,
I felt sure that there had to be a mathematical formula but I had no idea which one. Thanks a lot for the explanation, no secrets for me any more!

Regards,
Harry

[Steelweaver]

I noticed on your last headstock pic that the low string is almost ready to come off the post. If the string is wound from bottom up, it will tend to hold the string better.otherwise it sure looks like a great first attempt!

bobsmethod.jpg (31.98 KiB) Viewed 3100 times

Hope this attached pic helps

[Steelweaver]

I also noticed that the thickness of of your headstock reduced the amount of the post sticking out.If the thickness is around one half inch, the post will protrude more and give you more to wind the string on.As your other poster mentioned, I learned all these things the hard way!

[harry sibum]

Hi Steelweaver,

Thanks for your kind words! I liked the project, I learned a lot, and I shall certainly build more lapsteels in the future! Anyway, in the meantime I have made some little improvements to this instrument, and I really must say, I am very pleased with this little baby! BTW, my tuning is C-E-G-A-C-E.

Sincerely,
Harry

[Lap Steel Your Face]

Hello everyone,

My lapsteel, Canal House, is finished. I would like to show you all some pics. I made it out of laminated hardwood just for a try, inexperienced as I am. Did not want to waste some precious maple the first time, you never know. Anyway, I am very proud of the result: lots of sustain, nice mellow sound, this inspite of having used a Tele pu.
Fretboard out of a piece of 3 mm oak veneer which tended to crumble as soon as I tried to drill holes in it. For that reason, no abalone inlays but just some brass furniture nails. Simple but it serves the purpose.

Allan, thanks again for your immediate spontaneous help!
And, next time i shall build a lapsteel out of the real wood, with proper inlays aso.

All the best,
Harry Sibum
The Hofner House

Harry,
Very nice. What are your fret markers? Sharpie?

[harry sibum]

Hi Steelface,

Because of the fact that the oak veneer would crumble asa I put a saw on it, I decided to just mark the positions with a black pen; simple but effective again.
In the meantime I built a second guitar almost exactly the same like the first one, for this one using this tuning from low to high:
B D# F# A C# E
a wonderful tuning for blues and ballads because of the B dominant 9th chord B D# F# A C#, the minor 7th F# A C# E, and still major and minor chords; this combination gives me many new features like +5 and diminished chords. And the sound of this beauty is again smooooooth and sexy.
Pics later.

Mzl,
Harry

[harry sibum]

Hi everyone,

Here are some pics of my second Canal House lapsteel. This one has got a few different features:

headstock was brought down to the higher part of the guitar, making tuning a lot easier
string topload instead of strings-through-body; no difference in sustain and a new tuning:

B D# F# A C# E

Best wishes,
Harry
www.thehofnerhouse.nl

[harry sibum]

... and three pics more. Two pictures of both guitars together; maybe you can tell the differences.

Best, Harry