poly

Finishing methods and saftey, inlay...
azureskys
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poly

Post by azureskys »

Ive used polyeurthene on car finishes and it works well with wood also , its super tough and will last for years and years water proof as well as risistant to other things and it can be buffed to a high sheen just like on a car, one thing about spraying it on wood make sure you seal the wood with a good sanding sealer then spray a coat let it dry then you can apply further coats making the last coat wet wet wet , you ll need no further sanding , buffing isnt neccessary but you can if you want , id lightly wet sand with something like 600 up to 800 wet dry sanding paper then buff on out , stand back it ll knock your eyes out you ll love it . I did auto body work and lots of painting during my 30 years of painting i did learn a little bit lol comments welcome . Russ
azureskys
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Re: poly

Post by azureskys »

one thing i need to mention i always use a hardner if you dont use a hardned id wait before buffing probly about a week for the poly to completly cure , with a hardner you can buff right away . Russ
Allan
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Re: poly

Post by Allan »

I'm interested in the hardener. Where can I get some of that? Do you know if it is usable with wipe on poly? Do you just mix it in before applying or how do you use it?

Questions, questions, questions!!! :lol: :lol: :lol:

Allan.....
Only nuts eat squirrels.
Keep yer tools sharp! That way you can use more of your strength guiding them AWAY from your body rather than forcing the cut!!!
azureskys
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Re: poly

Post by azureskys »

i would think a paint store might carry the hardner allen if not that try an autobody supply store i know they have it , if your going to brush it on you ll have to buff probly to get rid of brush marks , i always sprayed it and by all means use a decent respirator to protect your lungs from the over spray.
Bent
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Re: poly

Post by Bent »

Hooo boy! Now that you told me that you know auto painting..watch out. I have tons of questions!
To get my mind straight: Polyurethane, is that the same as what is normally called "clear coat"?
Because we are talking about the top coat, over the stain, right?

I have recently taken a liking to touching up my own autos with body work and paint. Mostly just to get used to the paint gun and become steadier at moving it with the right speed, distance, etc. What I have been using so far is acrylic enamel. It goes on nice, albeit differently than the Instrument lacquer I have been using on the steels.

I know that Eddie Fulawka uses what he calls Clearcoat from Dupont. Some really high quality stuff that he claims he pays $400 a gallon for. It ends up shiner than anything...one look at his steels will prove that.

How many coats of the poly do you recommend putting on? There comes a time when X amount is a waste, right?

I think black steels are beautiful. In that case, could I use black poly to spray the steel body as if I was painting my car, and you say it would look like a million bucks? What would I be using underneath that paint? The sanding sealer like you recommended?

So, wood sanding sealer is compatible with auto paint?

So many questions, so much to learn. Thanks in advance for your answer Russ!
BTW, Allan, the hardener that I used, you mix it 1 part hardener to 7 parts paint. You mix it in just before painting. I think spraying would work way better than wipe-on.
http://benrom.com/
21 BenRom pedal steel guitars, a Nash 112 and a 1967 TOS Milling machine with many cutters making one hell of a mess on the floor.
azureskys
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Re: poly

Post by azureskys »

I would use a water base sanding sealer first(grain filler might be needed , depends on what kind of wood you are using), then apply a base cost of poly with hardner let that dry then sand lightly with maybe 400 paper ( wet dry paper that is )use a tack cloth to pickup any sanding dust that might be on the surface make sure you use a little soap in your warm water , it helps in keeping the surface clean and smooth and washes away any dust ,Now apply your first coat of black paint( or whatever color you are using, let that tack up untill it gets almost dry which wont take long because your using hardner right?. now apply your second coat of color , ok here comes the fun part let that all dry completly, now get a flat paint stick wrap some 600 wet dry paper around it dip it in your warm soapy water ( a spraybottle of water will come in handy here) lay the sanding stick on the surface and start sanding gently to remove any and all high spots just like you would on a car ok? now sand everything untill it becomes a uniform color that way you know you have sanded all the surface .clean it and let it dry , apply next coat of color in the same fashion let it tack up then apply one more coat of color if needed ( make sure you apply enough color to offer a very wet finish, next apply clear coat as wet as possible , one more clear coat very wet let that dry , you should have a very wet looking surface after all is finished and dry , if you want to buff at this stage you can but its not neccessary . i might have left something out ask me .as for paying 400 a gallon hummm i dont think id do that why would you ?
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Pat Comeau
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Re: poly

Post by Pat Comeau »

IMHO...the problem with Polyurethane or Urethane is that it does not blend together with previous coats...it just sits on top of each coat you apply, unlike lacquer that blends with each coats to become one big coat when finish, lacquer has always been my first choice cause i have tried other varnish and had bad experiences, until i can't find it or they stop selling it...the only finish for me is lacquer when it comes to musical instruments, cars and other stuff it's okay to use other top coat finish.
Bent
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Re: poly

Post by Bent »

Deleted. Double post.
Last edited by Bent on Thu May 06, 2010 8:45 am, edited 1 time in total.
http://benrom.com/
21 BenRom pedal steel guitars, a Nash 112 and a 1967 TOS Milling machine with many cutters making one hell of a mess on the floor.
Bent
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Re: poly

Post by Bent »

Pat, you have a valid point here.
I am sure there are advantages and disadvantages to both, however I DO like the fact that lacquer blends with the previous coat.
Let's hear from the rest of yous :-)

But remember Pat, with poly, you spray wet coat on tacky coat so you do get some sort of a blending there. This would be the same procedure as when you paint your car: Spray a coat say from one end of the car, along the whole side, to the front. Then you immediately start at the back again. Keep going until the shine starts coming. Then you're done. You can visualize some sort of blending there.
http://benrom.com/
21 BenRom pedal steel guitars, a Nash 112 and a 1967 TOS Milling machine with many cutters making one hell of a mess on the floor.
azureskys
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Re: poly

Post by azureskys »

Polyurethene can be blended in as well as uerethene or laquer i can understand using lac and likeing it because of the ease of use and i agree its been used for years with positive results no dought about that . poly can be blended as in a repair or as a complete paint job on wood or metal, it is a heavy bodied coating unlike lac which you can put on many many coats it all depends on how much you thin it , ive heard of 10 plus coats and sanding between coats i dont know why but some people do that its completly uneccessary anyway getting back to poly if its to be blended first you need to soften up the base coat with a mist spray of thinner reducer or whatever you wanna call it then you can procede with a light coat let it tack then a final finish coat really wet it dosent make any difference if its wood or metal the finish isnt touching either one thats why you seal wood and prime metal , finishing is all the same . anyway we all have our favorites i like poly because of the tough ness and the gloss you can get from it , ?it ll shine like nothing else , a suggestion you might try is on a scrap peice of wood ,for that super shine id get a high solid poly or urethene and shoot that last coat super wet , Itll be slicker than snot on a glass door knob as they say lolo :D
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