poly

Finishing methods and saftey, inlay...
Bent
Posts: 1397
Joined: Mon Nov 02, 2009 3:10 pm
Location: Ontario Canada
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Re: poly

Post by Bent »

Russ, no matter the differences or if this sounds wild but: I would like to try painting a steel body black( they sound the best) Just black and shiny, with maybe some cool looking banding for contrast.
Ok, how's this: I have some GM black acrylic enamel left over from my last auto painting. It does come up shiny on the car. Would it be shiny, good looking and long lasting on hard maple as well? Or is poly better because it's harder or something? You can tell I really need help here :-)
http://benrom.com/
21 BenRom pedal steel guitars, a Nash 112 and a 1967 TOS Milling machine with many cutters making one hell of a mess on the floor.
azureskys
Posts: 524
Joined: Sat Apr 10, 2010 1:12 am

Re: poly

Post by azureskys »

Bent , i think either might do nicely as long as you have hardner in it however myself id go with the polyurethene simply for its toughness and if you want it to look wet and glossy put a couple clear coats over the black make them very wet , you ll probly want to buff it so i wouldnt worry about and runs or sags you might have , you can sand those out during your wet sanding after all is dry the thing is with the clear over the color,it will give you a deeper gloss and when you wet sand the clear it will turn kinda whitish but once you get to buffing the shine will come up very nicely, i hope your understand me here lol ok now if you just do the color alone without the clear ( black in this case) it will come out nice but not as nice as with the clear( make sure you get a high solid clear, ive done some very expensive paint jobs in the past and we ALWAYS used a clear polyurethene for that super high wet look gloss . thats my story and im sticking to it lol If you can be patiant for a couple weeks ill have something to show you in polyurethene just like your asking about clear over color on wood. Russ
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