END PLATE QUESTION

[louckswayne]

Hey Guys
After cutting out the end plate parts on a band saw, what is a good way to dress the
edges to finished size!
Thanks
Wayne

[Pat Comeau]

Hi Wayne,
can you explain a little bit more what you're trying to do?

Pat C

[louckswayne]

Hi Wayne,
can you explain a little bit more what you're trying to do?

Pat C

Yes Pat
If you saw a pc. of 1/4" aluminum out on a bandsaw, how do you dress
the edge smooth and straight and get rid of the saw marks etc.
Hope this helps
Wayne

[Bent]

Wayne, say you have cut the longest part and the two "wings". These are to be welded together.
You have already cut as straight as possible. Now you use your disk sander. lay the part on the table, against a 90 deg guide and sand the part square. You will be butting the wing up to the long part so with this in mind, use a file or the sander again, and grind a V- groove in the long part for the weld . This makes a solid weld bead.
All the inside welds will have a natural V groove to weld anyway so you are ok there.
Then you grind and file, file and grind etc etc till you have ground down the welds even with the surrounding material. When you're happy with your grinding, you can start sanding. Start with 150 grit sand paper and go gradually up to about 600. Don't skip steps. Say you use 150, 220,320,400, 500, and 600. Even finer if you want to.
Then when all the fun stuff is done, you will need to polish and buff it if you want it to shine. For this you need 2 buffing wheels and at least 2 different buffing compounds. When you see your own reflection like a mirror, you are done.

[louckswayne]

Wayne, say you have cut the longest part and the two "wings". These are to be welded together.
You have already cut as straight as possible. Now you use your disk sander. lay the part on the table, against a 90 deg guide and sand the part square. You will be butting the wing up to the long part so with this in mind, use a file or the sander again, and grind a V- groove in the long part for the weld . This makes a solid weld bead.
All the inside welds will have a natural V groove to weld anyway so you are ok there.
Then you grind and file, file and grind etc etc till you have ground down the welds even with the surrounding material. When you're happy with your grinding, you can start sanding. Start with 150 grit sand paper and go gradually up to about 600. Don't skip steps. Say you use 150, 220,320,400, 500, and 600. Even finer if you want to.
Then when all the fun stuff is done, you will need to polish and buff it if you want it to shine. For this you need 2 buffing wheels and at least 2 different buffing compounds. When you see your own reflection like a mirror, you are done.

Thanks Bent
I now have a clear understanding of how to do this!
Wayne

[Pat Comeau]

I do all my rough sanding ,straightning, leveling and edging on the bench belt sander using a 50 grit, after i use a palm sander for the sanding and last i hand sand for the finish sanding before polishing ect...

Pat C

[louckswayne]

I do all my rough sanding ,straightning, leveling and edging on the bench belt sander using a 50 grit, after i use a palm sander for the sanding and last i hand sand for the finish sanding before polishing ect...

Pat C

Pat
Thanks for the help!
Wayne

[richard37066]

Bent - or anyone -

I've done a pretty thorough search on the forum and come up empty so I think I'm on firm ground in asking the following question: - What size and material should one consider for buffing wheels? I'm aware that one can make a real mess of things by using the wrong wheel, compound and pressure when attempting to buff out things like aluminum. Further, I've seen monster buffing wheels used to buff out guitars (cabinets?) and the like. I'm certainly not a stranger when it comes to the varieties of sandpaper - aluminum oxide, wet or dry, etc. If I'm eventually going to add such things to the shop arsenal then I may as well get the necessary information up front and early.

My thanks,

Richard

[Bent]

Richard,
Great question indeed. Not so sure about my own qualifications to answer though, but here is my experience:
First, buffing is very much an acquired art. I stress art.
Go with the 3 compounds which are the most used: Sticks that are Black (course) , brown (medium), and White (fine) Have a wheel dedicated to each it's compound. Have, or make a buffing system with a motor that has a long enough shaft out both ends so the bearings etc don't interfere with the piece being buffed.
For the black wheel, I recommend using an 8" wheel with just a wee bit of fluff to it ( it is sewn quite hard, with just a wee bit of nap sticking out)
Then the medium wheel has more fluff sticking out. The finishing wheel is very floppy ..any little bit of pressure presses that wheel flat where its working on the part.

Did I stress art? Polishing or buffing is indeed a hit and miss in the hands of a novice. It seems like the aluminum has a mind of its own. Things can be going along nicely; you're thinking to yourself: This end plate will turn out great! Next thing you know is it appears streaky and cloudy and there seems no way for you to correct it. I seen myself out of sheer frustration, sanding down a whole. Almost shiny endplate with 400 grit and starting all over. Let us know how you make out and if there is anything I can add.

[richard37066]

Bent -

Many thanks.

I anticipated the "art" aspect of the operation. Like many, I've ruined the finish on a cabinet, bookshelf or whatever by getting too anxious to see the end result. In building classic guitars many years ago I quickly learned the virtue in patience. As to the equipment, it's obvious that the right choice is key to eventual success - hence the question. Three wheels for three different polishing grits? I understand. I've always kept my sandpaper varieties in large, manilla envelopes - seperated by grits. Don't want a speck of 80 grit getting onto 400 wet-or-dry. You've given me a place to start. Fortunately, I've got plenty of time to nail some things down. I'll certainly do "due diligence" as they say.

Richard