I am able to take the Hog Out Work and Finite Finish Routing + all of the Down Holes and Pockets down to 18 minutes per body.
This Motion-Master is a 10 hp XYZ Table .002 tolerance. A GB takes as little as .125 mill bits , and full 1" Shavers. The Machine is programed to speed up the feed rate on straight aways - slow on curves, from 500" down to 50" per/min. It also is programmed to to change spin direction on critical curves with dual direction bits. After the 1/2" speed bit cuts the main shape exterior the Big Daddy Shaver comes in and does 2-3 passes going in .005 each pass to clean up the hog bit leftover lines.
Bent, I gave some serious thought to building an overhead router setup at one time. What I have ended up with is an inverted pin router. That is a very good compromise. It lets me use normal (non-bearing) bits. I can also sneak up on things by wrapping a few layers of tape on the overhead pin and removing them one at a time.
Allan.....
Only nuts eat squirrels. Keep yer tools sharp! That way you can use more of your strength guiding them AWAY from your body rather than forcing the cut!!!
LOL - 'ingenious' is a bit strong isn't it? But it works!
Here's another one for you then, if you are into the 'sneaking up' way of working.
I always have a pack of playing cards (I like the cheap and nasty plastic ones) in my shop. If you are routing an edge along a guide you can set the board width just a little wider than you want the final size to be then use the cards to slowly move the board into the bit to get a really good edge. Just add one or two cards at a time between the board and the guide fence until the final width is reached. You will be making really thin slices and you stand the best chance of getting a good finish.
Allan.....
Only nuts eat squirrels. Keep yer tools sharp! That way you can use more of your strength guiding them AWAY from your body rather than forcing the cut!!!
